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From their Ubud base, the likes of Walter Spies and Rudolph Bonnet were instrumental in promoting an understanding of Balinese art and culture worldwide.From the 1960s onwards, travellers started to arrive in earnest, mostly intrepid types as the infrastructure was still very limited indeed..To the immediate west and northwest are the villages of Campuan (Tjampuhan, Campuhan) and Kedewatan, home to some of the most upmarket hotels in the whole of Asia, with views over valleys sculpted by the Ayung and Wos rivers..

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The temple complex at Gunung Kawi, and the cave temples at Goa Gajah (just east and northeast of Ubud), are architectural remains from this period..

While Ubud seems to outsiders like one small town, it is in fact fourteen villages, each run by its own banjar (village committee).

Ubud has grown rapidly, and some central parts are creaking under the strain of coping with the number of visitors..

Jl Monkey Forest, which runs south through town to the Monkey Forest, is a built up area, and home to a wide array of accommodation, art galleries, and cafes, as well a number of local services such as schools, a sports field, pharmacies, and travel agents..

Jl Hanoman, which runs parallel to Jl Monkey Forest just to the east, is a bit quieter and makes for more pleasant walking..

Central Ubud has three main streets; Jl Raya Ubud, Jl Monkey Forest and Jl Hanoman.